Friday, August 24, 2007

Examples of Recent Science Proving the Benefits of Vitamin Skin Creams

(1) Perifollicular pigmentation is the first target for topical vitamin C derivative ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate (APPS): randomized, single-blinded, placebo-controlled study. Comments. Inui, Shigeki. Japan. Journal of Dermatology (2007), 34(3), 221-223. Publisher: Blackwell Publishing Asia Pty Ltd., CODEN: JDMYAG ISSN: 0385-2407. Journal written in English. CAN 147:110083 AN 2007:373252


The effect of topical vitamin C deriv. ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate (APPS) on the conspicuous facial pores evidenced by randomized, single-blinded, placebo- controlled study was evaluated. In this study, 10 healthy Japanese females and one male, aged 20-60 years, participated between March and May 2006 at Hojikai Ikeda Hospital. Six subjects applied 1 % APPS lotion on the face twice a day at morning and night for 4 wk. Five subjects applied the base soln. twice a day at morning and night for 4 wk. Results showed that APPS significantly reduced the blackish pores corresponding to perifollicular pigmentation but showed no significant effect on the size of the facial pores. One possible reason for this discrepancy is that the treatment period was not enough to obtain size redn. by APPS. Indeed, the preferential tendency for size redn. was obsd. Thus, a longer-term trial will provide more information for the effect APPS effect on the pore size. Taken together, it is suggested that perifollicular pigmentation is the first target, preceding the pigmentation of interfollicular epidermis, for skin whitening.

(2) Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Humbert, Philippe G.; Haftek, Marek; Creidi, Pierre; Lapiere, Charles; Nusgens, Betty; Richard, Alain; Schmitt, Daniel; Rougier, Andre; Zahouani, Hassan. Department of Dermatology, Hospital Saint Jacques, University of Franche-Comte, Besancon, Fr. Experimental Dermatology (2003), 12(3), 237-244. Publisher: Blackwell Munksgaard, CODEN: EXDEEY ISSN: 0906-6705. Journal written in English. CAN 140:35875 AN 2003:604716 CAPLUS (Copyright (C) 2007 ACS on SciFinder (R))


Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant potential and activity in the collagen biosynthetic pathway. Photoprotective properties of topically applied vitamin C have also been demonstrated, placing this mol. as a potential candidate for use in the prevention and treatment of skin ageing. A topically applied cream contg. 5% vitamin C and its excipient were tested on healthy female volunteers presenting with photoaged skin on their low-neck and arms in view to evaluate efficacy and safety of such treatment. A double-blind, randomized trial was performed over a 6 mo period, comparing the action of the vitamin C cream vs. excipient on photoaged skin. Clin. assessments included evaluation at the beginning and after 3 and 6 mo of daily treatment. They were performed by the investigator and compared with the volunteer self assessment. Skin relief parameters were detd. on silicone rubber replicas performed at the same time-points. Cutaneous biopsies were obtained at the end of the trial and investigated using immunohistochem. and electron microscopy. Clin. examn. by a dermatologist as well as self-assessment by the volunteers disclosed a significant improvement, in terms of the "global score", on the vitamin C-treated side compared with the control. A highly significant increase in the d. of skin microrelief and a decrease of the deep furrows were demonstrated. Ultrastructural evidence of the elastic tissue repair was also obtained and well corroborated the favorable results of the clin. and skin surface examns. Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream was an effective and well-tolerated treatment. It led to a clin. apparent improvement of the photodamaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a pos. influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin ageing.

(3) Effect of vitamin C on skin disease. Ichihashi, Masamitsu. Sch. Med., Kobe Univ., Kobe, Japan. Fragrance Journal (1997), 25(3), 29-33. Publisher: Fureguransu Janaru Sha, CODEN: FUJAD7 ISSN: 0288-9803. Journal; General Review written in Japanese. CAN 126:324780 AN 1997:233740


A review with 21 refs. Lack of vitamin C is not a serious problem in the developed countries, but scurvy patients are still seen in many parts of the world where general malnutrition is common. In vitamin C deficiency, collagen synthesis is depressed and multiple syndromes with bone, mucous membrane and skin abnormalities develop. Vitamin C is clin. applied to treat pigmentary disorders, such as chloasma, and post-inflammatory pigmentation, and also used to treat pigmented purpura in combination with vitamin E and tranexamic acid. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VC-2P) shown to be effective in the prevention of lipid peroxidn., melanogenesis and cell death may be applied effectively for human skin to prevent photoaging.

(4) The new efficacy of niacinamide in the skin and the application to the skin care products of cosmetics. Tanno, Osamu. Basic Res. Lab., Kanebo Ltd., Odawara, Japan. Fragrance Journal (2004), 32(2), 35-39. Publisher: Fureguransu Janaru Sha, CODEN: FUJAD7 ISSN: 0288-9803. Journal; General Review written in Japanese. CAN 140:275682 AN 2004:194729


A review. Niacin and niacinamide play an important role as coenzymes, NAD+ and NADP+, in the skin. Recently, some studies of new efficacy of niacinamide were reported that it may work through without NAD+ and NADP+. We had reported the new efficacy of niacinamide that increased the synthesis of the stratum corneum lipids. The topical application of niacinamide improved the water contents and the TEWL of the winter xerosis. In this paper, I present other possibility of niacinamide in the skin. Niacinamide suppress the scratching of NC mice and decrease the stinging score for sensitive skin. Niacinamide also prevents and improves the acne. Finally, I discuss about the new efficacy of niacinamide for skin care products.

(5) A topical lipophilic niacin derivative increases NAD, epidermal differentiation and barrier function in photodamaged skin. Jacobson, Elaine L.; Kim, Hyuntae; Kim, Moonsun; Williams, Joshua D.; Coyle, Donna L.; Coyle, W. Russell; Grove, Gary; Rizer, Ronald L.; Stratton, M. Suzanne; Jacobson, Myron K. Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology, College of Pharmacy, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ, USA. Experimental Dermatology (2007), 16(6), 490-499. Publisher: Blackwell Publishing Ltd.


The effects of myristyl nicotinate (MN), a nicotinic acid deriv. designed to deliver nicotinic acid to skin without vasodilatation, on subjects with photodamaged skin have been studied. MN increased skin cell NAD (NAD) by 25% (P = 0.001) demonstrating effective delivery of nicotinic acid to skin. Relative to placebo, MN treatment of photodamaged facial skin increased stratum corneum thickness by approx. 70% (P = 0.0001) and increased epidermal thickness by approx. 20% (P = 0.001). In two sep. studies, MN treatment increased rates of epidermal renewal by 6% (P = 0.003) to 11% (P = 0.001) and increased the minimal erythemal dose by 8.9 (P = 0.07) and 10% (P = 0.05) relative to placebo. MN treatment resulted in redns. in the rates of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of approx. 20% relative to placebo on cheeks (P = 0.012) and arms (P = 0.017) of study subjects. Results of a tape stripping challenge before and after MN treatment demonstrated a significant correlation (P = 0.03) between increased skin NAD content and resistance to changes in TEWL for MN treated but not placebo subjects. Rates of TEWL changed more rapidly and to a greater extent in atopic subjects compared with normal subjects. The results indicate that MN enhances epidermal differentiation and barrier function in skin, suggesting that this method of nicotinic acid delivery may prove useful in limiting progression of actinic skin damage and possibly in treating other conditions involving skin barrier impairment.

(6) Antiaging topical formulations containing niacin and ubiquinones. Moro, Osamu. (Shiseido Co., Ltd., Japan). Jpn. Kokai Tokkyo Koho (2005), 20 pp. CODEN: JKXXAF JP 2005298370 A 20051027 Patent written in Japanese. Application: JP 2004-113613 20040407.


Antiaging topical formulations contain niacin and ubiquinones selected from ubiquinone Q7, Q8, Q9, and Q10. A skin cream contg. 0.5 wt.% coenzyme Q10 and 1.0 wt.% nicotinamide showed good antiwrinkle, antiaging, and pigmentation-preventing effects on human skin.

(7) Peeling composition containing vitamin B3 and vitamin C. Sore, Gabrielle; Hansenne, Isabelle. (L'Oreal, Fr.). Fr. Demande (2005), 13 pp. CODEN: FRXXBL FR 2861595 A1 20050506 Patent written in French. Application: FR 2003-50742 20031029. Priority: . CAN 142:435386 AN 2005:394075


A compn. for topical application on the skin comprises: (a) 10-70% in wt. of nicotinic acid, esters of nicotinic acid and nicotinamide, and (b) 10-70% in wt. of ascorbic acid and its precursors. This compn. is used in dermatol. prepns. intended to carry out chem. peeling of surface of the skin, in order to attenuate the visible and/or tactile irregularities of the skin, and to attenuate the pigmentary wrinkles in particular and/or spots and/or the scars such as the marks of acne or chicken pox. A topical peeling compn. contained niacinamide 10, ascorbic acid 10, glycerin 10, and water q.s. 100%.

(8) Skin care composition containing glycerin and a vitamin B3 compound that increase and repair skin barrier function. Evans, Erica Louise; Matts, Paul Jonathan. (The Procter & Gamble Company, USA). Eur. Pat. Appl. (2004), 14 pp. CODEN: EPXXDW EP 1459736 A1 20040922 Patent written in English. Application: EP 2003-251574 20030314.


Skin care compns. are provided comprising (i) greater than 7% glycerin, (ii) a vitamin B3 compd., i.e., niacinamide, nicotinic acid, tocopherol nicotinate, and inositol hexanicotinate, and (iii) a natural moisturizing factor selected from amino acids or sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate. The skin care compns. of the present invention provide improved acute skin hydration in combination with increased skin barrier function repair that result in improved chronic skin hydration.

(9) Skin lightening compositions comprising vitamins and flavonoids. Yates, Paula Rachel; Charles-Newsham, Rebecca Louise. (Unilever Plc, UK; Unilever NV; Hindustan Lever Limited). PCT Int. Appl. (2005), 32 pp. CODEN: PIXXD2 WO 2005094770 A1 20051013 Patent written in English. Application: WO 2005-EP2596 20050310.


A compn. is provided comprising a flavanoid, vitamin C, vitamin E and niacin. The compn. can be used as a skin lightening agent for systemic or topical administration. Thus, a combination of a flavanoid (Pycnogenol), vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide inhibited dark melanin prodn. in vitro in a synergistic manner and increased light melanin prodn. Further effects were seen in combination with vitamin A with the best results being obtained with a seven component combination also including vitamin B12 and cysteine.


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